I think the growing interest in fermenting is tied to
a bigger food movement that is concerned with the provenance of food … people
want to know the story of what they eat. In the past, all food had a story –
where the berries were picked, how, when, where and what was hunted. Over time,
supermarkets have made us lose our connection with food. I believe people are
now looking for more variety and individuality in their food as most
mass-produced food is aimed at the lowest common denominator – it can’t be too
spicy, too salty, too bitter, and too sweet. It has to please as many people as
possible.
Another clear food trend this year is pickling and
preserving. All these fads are nothing new off course. We have been fermenting,
pickling and preserving foods for centuries.
I love to preserve food in the form of chutney’s. There’s
a great deal of creative satisfaction to be had in seeing rows of shiny jars
filled with good things stored away ready to enliven all kinds of meals. I’m a romantic
and confess to wanting to keep alive the great tradition of preserving, so I
will be making an array of interesting chutneys to liven up cold meats, pates
and terrines over the next few weeks.
The word chutney derives from the Hindu word 'chatni'
which was the term used to describe the relishes that accompany many Indian
meals. Chutney was imported from India to Western Europe in the 17th century.
European reproductions of chutney were often called "mangoed" fruits
and vegetables, as one of the most common fruits used in the making of chutney
is the mango.
Almost all chutney contains vinegar and perhaps
onions to give it a corresponding sour flavour. The ingredients are mixed
together and then simmered slowly. While chutney is primarily sweet and sour,
there can also be many variations of spices, often giving it a hot and spicy
flavour.
Sterilising the jars is one of the most crucial steps
to successful preserving and you should never cut corners with this one. If you
not do this properly you might find your preserved goods becomes mouldy and
ferments sooner than expected. Preheat the oven to 120°C. Wash the jars in hot
soapy water; do not dry them with a tea towel. Place the damp jars and lids on
a clean baking tray; try not to touch the jars and lids on the insides. Place
them in the preheated oven for about 40 minutes. Let the jars cool slightly
before you add the cooked product. Never pour cold liquid in to hot glass jars,
you will end up with broken glass. Take extra care when sterilising the jars,
if they are overheated they might explode.
Fresh Mango chutney
Ingredients
1.5kl mangos (firm, but ripe)
1 clove of garlic, crushed
1tbsp ginger, finely chopped
2 small red onions, finely chopped
1 fresh green chilli, finely chopped
300ml white wine vinegar
250g sugar
100ml olive oil
Spice
mixture
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon chilli powder
2 teaspoons white mustard seeds
8 cardamom pods
1 teaspoon salt
Place all the spices in a grinder and pulse to a
course powder.
Peel, stone and chop the mangos into large dice.
Puree half the mangos with a blender. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan
and add the chopped onions, garlic, ginger and green chilli. Cook for 2-3
minutes to soften without colouring and add the spice mixture, vinegar &
sugar. Cook for 2 minutes more and add the mango puree and the diced mango.
Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook over a gentle heat with the lid on for
35-40 minutes until the chutney has a thick, syrupy consistency. Divide the
mixture among sterilised jars, seal and keep for up to 3-4 weeks in the
refrigerator.
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