Earlier this year I travelled to the coast of
Andalucía on a pilgrimage to find the best tuna in the world at the festival of
Almadraba bluefin tuna. After the first full moon in May, the fishermen set up
a complicated labyrinth of nets, which catch the tuna as they migrate from the
Atlantic to warmer Mediterranean waters to spawn. Apparently, their fat
reserves keep them warm through the winter meaning the fish are succulent and
full-flavoured. The fish swim through different compartments of the nets until
they reach the final area, locked in by the fisherman’s boats, which form a
ring around the net. Next comes the most dramatic and breathtaking part of the
process, ‘la levanta’, in which the burly fishermen hoist up the net and select
the biggest fish, with some weighing more than 500 kilos. The Almadraba fishing
system – meaning ‘to strike’ in Arabic – has been praised for its
sustainability as there is no overfishing with a strict quota that the
fishermen cannot exceed. This ancient method of fishing was first used by the
Phoenicians on the coast of Cadiz and was later perfected by the Romans and was
historically practiced all along the coast of Cádiz province. However, now it
is only used in 4 villages: Barbate, Zahara de los Atunes, Conil de la
Frontera, and Tarifa. Each of these villages also has a festival every May or
June to celebrate this annual important event.
Fresh tuna is one of the most versatile and easy to
prepare fish and as I walked through the market the other day and saw some
fantastic looking tuna…I couldn't resist buying some. It’s a meaty fish with a
distinctly rich, strong flavour and is a good source of omega-3 fatty acids and
protein. When buying fresh tuna, it is important to judge the freshness before
purchasing as tuna is often served raw and it goes off quickly. The best way to
check the freshness is by the smell and touch – it should be odourless, firm
and moist. Tuna is graded depending on the fat content, quality and size of the
fish. The colouring of tuna ranges from deep red steaks with a lower fat
content, mostly used for grilling, to the very pale pink belly, known here as
Ventresca, which is the fattiest cut highly prized by sushi chefs for its
texture and flavour. It’s so good that I often call it the “pata Negra” of the
sea.
From a chef's point-of-view, it's an incredibly
adaptable fish that lends itself to an array of different cooking styles and
flavours. When exceptionally fresh it is perfect served raw sashimi style or
finely chopped with some capers, parsley and lemon juice for a tuna tartar. If
you can't handle raw fish you can poach it gently in olive oil and serve it
with stewed peppers, salad leaves and a garlicky ali-oli. It is the perfect
fish for grilling or barbecues. If you brush it beforehand with olive oil and
coat it lightly with finely crushed peppercorns and fresh herbs, then serve it
with new potatoes and rocket leaves it's unbeatable. Beware of over-cooking
fresh tuna, as it tends to dry out, so be brave and serve it still pink in the
middle.
Due to its popularity, tuna is being dangerously
overfished in some parts of the world – depending on the type of tuna and where
it is fished; it may even be on the endangered species list. Always check the
latest sustainability information before buying tuna or choose sources that
have been given the MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) seal of approval. Both the
blue fin and yellow fin tuna are found in the Mediterranean. They are
migratory, are always on the move and have enormous appetites. Their speed,
size and stamina makes them formidable hunters and they feed on schools of
small fish like sardines, herrings and shrimps. This in turn gives them their
big flavour. Some blue fin tunas can grow to a weight of 2000 pounds or more.
Here are a couple of really simple tuna recipes, but if you don't want to spend
any time in the kitchen; light the barbecue and chuck on some well seasoned
tuna steaks. Just remember not to overcook them!
Grilled
Tuna with Orange, Olive and Caper Sauce
Ingredients Serves
4
4 x 180-225g Tuna steaks
For the
Sauce:
2 large oranges, Juiced
2 tomatoes, skinned, seeded and finely chopped
4 fl ozs/110ml orange juice
1 medium onion, chopped
Juice of one lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
20 black olives, stoned
20 capers
A handful of parsley, finely chopped
Put the onion, lemon juice, olives, capers and
parsley into the food processor and pulse until they are finely minced but not
smooth.
Remove from the food processor. Place the mixture
in a saucepan with the orange juice and chopped tomatoes. Bring to the boil and
reduce to thicken, stirring occasionally. Season to taste.
Place a frying pan over medium-high heat and add 2
tablespoons of olive oil. Season the tuna generously with salt and pepper. Lay
the tuna in the hot oil and sear for 1 minute on each side to form a slight
crust. Serve with the orange, olive and caper sauce, new potatoes and salad
leaves.
Marinated
tuna with warm pesto-potato salad
Ingredients:
serves 4
750g piece of middle cut tuna
150g sugar
150g coarse sea salt
200g olive oil
2tbsp chopped garlic cloves
4 bunches of rocket leaves
Juice of half a lemon
Warm
pesto-potato salad
24 new potatoes (boiled and skinned)
100ml pesto
Pesto:
100g fresh basil leaves
30g fresh parsley
25g pine nuts (lightly toasted)
2 garlic cloves (peeled)
350ml olive oil
Seasoning
Place all the ingredients in a food processor and
blend to a thick puree.
For the
tuna
Combine the salt and sugar and mix well.
To prepare the tuna, lay a sheet of cling film on a
chopping board and cover with a layer of salt and sugar. Place the whole tuna
fillet on top and cover with more salt and sugar. Wrap tightly in several
layers of cling film and store in the fridge for at least 6 hours, maximum 8. Remove
from the cling film and wash the tuna fillet in cold water to remove all the
salt. Cut into four even sized portions. Place in a plastic container and cover
with a little olive oil, copped parsley, garlic and lemon juice. Marinate for
at least 2 hours.
To
serve:
Mix a couple of spoonfuls of pesto with the new
potatoes and place a mound of pesto potatoes in the middle of each plate, then
place some rocket leaves on top.
Slice the tuna into 3 and place over the rocket
leaves. Drizzle with a spoonful of the olive oil marinade and serve
immediately.
Tuna
"Cerviche"
Ingredients:
serves 4
400g fresh tuna loin
4 tomatoes, peeled and diced
1 red onion, finely chopped
1 green chilli, finely chopped
1 small green pepper
Juice of 3 limes
2tbsp chopped
coriander
200ml olive oil
Salt & black pepper
Finely slice or dice the tuna fillet and place in a
bowl. Add the rest of the ingredients, mix well and leave to marinate for 4-5
minutes. Serve with a big green salad.
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