Some time ago I read fascinating article in Spain’s El Pais newspaper about farmers in the Madrid region rushing to plant pistachio tress. The title simply asked, “Are pistachios the new ‘green gold’ in Spain?” Apparently, the pistachio tree can yield up to €6,000 in just one hectare and farmers such as Álvaro Díez from Colmenar de Oreja, a town with 7,500 inhabitants that sits 50 kilometres from the Spanish capital are busy planting an endless sea of pistachio trees. On his farm, located on a terraced field of the Tagus River, very close to Aranjuez, the plantation already has more than 25 hectares, and the crop has increased by 30% in the last few years in the Madrid region alone, thanks mainly to its high profitability. This represents just a small portion of the 30,000 hectares of pistachio trees that are planted across the whole of Spain. Most of the trees are found in the central region of Castilla-La Mancha, which introduced them in the 1980s.
The pistachio is a tree that normally comes from desert areas; as such it requires environmental conditions that are found in very few regions on the planet. The tree blooms in April and the fruit matures in September. Only a couple of people are needed for the harvest, because the fruit is collected in a similar way to olives, using electric harvesters and canvas to collect the fallen fruit.
Middle Eastern recipes have used pistachios for millennia. Indeed, it was the Arab people who introduced the fruit to Spain. But it is only in recent years that its consumption has skyrocketed. I love to fiddle about, releasing those delicious, green pistachios that are held in a tight shell that you can open only with your fingernails. They are the perfect accompaniment for a cold beer or a chilled glass of wine, but they also make a fantastic ingredient in so many recipes both sweet and savoury. Dukkah is one of my culinary obsessions. It is an Egyptian side dish consisting of a mixture of nuts (usually hazelnut, although I think pistachios bring it to the next level) and spices that are lightly toasted and then crushed. When still warm, the aroma is amazing. The name dukkah means, ‘to crush’ or ‘to pound’ in Egyptian. It is typically used as a dip with bread and olive oil, and it also makes a perfect crust for lamb or chicken. Ground pistachios are loaded with flavour and colour, providing a welcome shot in the arm to otherwise beige looking almond cakes and they also work well in chocolate tarts when combined with a little rosewater.
PISTACHIO CUPCAKES
Ingredients makes 12
120g pistachio nuts, peeled
140g sugar
140g soft butter
140g flour
1tsp baking powder
5tbsp milk
2 eggs
Heat the oven to 160C.
Line a 12-hole muffin tin with cases. Put the pistachio nuts into a food processor with half of the sugar, then whizz until very finely chopped. Tip into a large mixing bowl with the remaining sugar, butter, eggs, flour, baking and milk and beat until smooth. Divide between cases, then bake for 20-25 minutes until a skewer comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.
Topping:
250g cream cheese
100ml cream
Juice of 1 lime
100g icing sugar
Using an electric hand whisk, blend the cream cheese with the cream, limejuice and icing sugar. Whisk until thick & smooth. Spoon into a piping bag fitted with a small, fluted nozzle, and chill until ready to use. When the cakes are cool, pipe a little icing on top of each cupcake, and then sprinkle with chopped pistachios.
PISTACHIO DUKKAH CRUSTED CHICKEN SKEWERS WITH BABA GANOUSH
Ingredients. Serves 4
500g chicken breast, skinned & diced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Place the chicken breast in the food processor. Blend to form a fine mince and season.
With wet hands, divide the seasoned chicken into 8 equal portions and mould each one around a wooden skewer into a long sausage shape. Roll the chicken skewers in Dukkah to coat evenly.
When ready to cook, heat a griddle or grill to its highest setting. Place the chicken skewers on the griddle or grill and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side, or until golden brown and cooked through. Serve with baba ganoush.
PISTACHIO DUKKAH
Ingredients:
4tbsp sesame seeds
2tbsp coriander seeds
100g Green Pistachio nuts, peeled
1tbsp cumin seeds
1tbsp fennel seeds
Salt and pepper to taste
Lightly roast the seeds and nuts in a hot oven until they begin to colour and release their aroma. Put them in a food processor and pulse them to form a dry mixture. Do not over work them.
Baba Ganoush
Ingredients Serves 8
2 large
aubergines
2 garlic cloves
½ tsp salt
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp sesame seeds
1 tbsp Tahini
A pinch
ground cumin
Pinch ground white pepper
2tbsp natural yogurt
Extra virgin olive oil, to serve
Seasoning
Preheat the grill to high. Prick the aubergines with a fork and grill them, turning occasionally, until the skin blisters and blackens all over. When cool, peel off the skin. Leave the aubergine flesh in a colander for 15 minutes to drain off excess liquid.
Pound the garlic and salt in a food processor. Add the aubergine flesh, lemon juice, sesame seeds, tahini, cumin, pepper and yogurt. Blend to a thick purée. Adjust the seasoning. Transfer to a bowl, drizzle with oil, sprinkle with parsley and serve with Dukkha crusted chicken skewers.
PLUM & PISTACHIO TART
Ingredients: serves 6
10-12 ripe plums, sliced thinly
2tbsp icing sugar
2 tablespoons chopped pistachios
Sweet pastry:
450g plain flour
Pinch of salt
150g icing sugar
200g cold butter (diced)
3 egg yolks
Pistachio Frangipane:
6 egg yolks
150g butter
100g ground almonds
75g ground pistachios
130g sugar
50g flour
10g corn flour
1 vanilla pod (optional)
For the sweet pastry:
Place the butter, flour and salt in a food processor and pulse until it resembles breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and egg yolks and pulse again, just enough to incorporate the eggs. Scrap out the pastry and wrap in cling film. Place in the fridge to rest for at least 30-40 minutes.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to about 3mm thick.
Line a 20cm tart ring with the pastry and rest in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the frangipane. Cut the vanilla pod in half lengthways and scrape out all the vanilla seeds. Using an electric whisk, beat the butter & vanilla seeds until creamy, then add the sugar and continue beating until light and fluffy. Gradually add the eggs yolks little by little, beating well after each addition, then stir in the ground almonds, ground pistachios & flour.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F.
Spread the pistachio frangipane evenly over the pastry case.
Arrange the plum slices in a circular pattern over the frangipane, overlapping slightly and press them lightly into the filling. Dust lightly with icing sugar and place in the hot oven for 30-35 minutes until the frangipane is cooked and the top is lightly caramelised. Sprinkle the chopped pistachios on top.
To Serve:
Let the tart cool before serving. Enjoy it warm or at room temperature, plain or with a dollop of whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
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